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The Greek Capital

Craggy coves and beautiful beaches form the magnificent combination that is the coastline of Athens. Therefore at the close of an autumn day, I found myself with a rather agreeable dilemma: where to go to relax bones still longing for a final taste of summer sun. For Athens offers something that other European cities cannot: a shoreline of over 60 kilometers dotted with beaches many a Aegean isle would covet.

Out of season, the coasts of Attica still have a magnetic allure, as I discovered when taking a dip into a dusk across the Vouliagmeni Bay. For those seeking revitalization in marine blue waters primed to turn golden as the sun sets, swimming off one of the Riviera’s public or private beaches does not disappoint.

With sea salt still on my skin, I sat at a local tavern, a eatery whose Mediterranean fare is as good as the spectacular view of the bay it sits on. In a tribute to bygone eras, the meze is served on big platters.

Athens is as renowned for its hills as its coastline: rising terrain within view of the Acropolis that make it a treasure trove for strollers when the weather cools. For those who want to escape a metropolis that sprawls across almost 200 square miles, these stone formations – bearers of wonderful titles such as the Nymphs' Hill and the Muses' Hill – are a must-see.

In my opinion, this ancient capital is the continent's most soulful and sublime.

If you climb the summit of Mount Lycabettus, the city’s highest point, either on foot or on the funicular rail car, the reward is a stunning view of the entire gulf and the offshore isles.

If you want to be in the center, the ancient Plaka neighborhood remains the ideal location. The traditional Adrian hotel has doubles looking on to the north side of the Parthenon from about £120 bed and breakfast. In the same area, Zorbas is a preferred restaurant with locals and serves the juiciest lamb chops. With views of the ancient monument, Athens’ rooftop restaurants are wonderfully atmospheric and perfect for warm autumn evenings – for a special experience visit a top restaurant or the Michelin‑starred fine dining establishment.

The Sicilian Capital

Believe Neapolitan pizza is the last word in pizza? Think again. In Palermo they prefer Sicilian pizza, a tender, airy slice of dough topped with intense, onion-heavy tomato sauce and sprinkled with local cheese and oregano. Savory, filling and comforting, it’s sold in shops, kiosks and stalls throughout the town (a central street in the historic centre usually has multiple sellers).

We try it at a kiosk on Piazza della Kalsa, near where we’re lodging. Panineria Chiluzzo often has big lines, but they move quickly as young staff serve pieces of sfincione, as well as rice balls and panelle. There are a couple of seats under the shade outside, but we dine as we walk into the city along tight a street. This is a nice walk in October but wouldn’t be so in the heat. As hot spells swept Europe this year, the mercury in Sicily topped 40C in the shadow. At the summer's peak one sunbaked corner reached an unprecedented 70C at the surface.

We wander the city and enjoy how its long history is written in its streets.

Now, as the climate rise to 24C by the afternoon, we can explore the city and savour how its long history is written in its roads. Walking by historic buildings, and a famous coffee shop, the city’s first coffee house, we admire the Arab-Norman domes of the 12th-century church of San Cataldo; a main square, with its 16th-century fountain, installed under colonial times; and the grand church, constructed on the location of a ninth-century Islamic temple.

On the way back we take a side trip to Vucciria market, the roots of which also date back over 1,000 years. Some decry its touristification, but it is still lively and brilliantly theatrical. Being adventurous, we stop for a traditional spleen sandwich, which is better than expected, with its mildly sugary “meat” balanced by grated cheese. The vendor is especially pleased of his grilled goat’s intestines but, unfortunately, no amount of seasoning can make those a treat for me.

We’re happy to return to quieter La Kalsa, the historic district to the eastern part, which was damaged in the World War II and languished for decades before being renewed this era. Maison Butera (ocean-facing rooms from $175 with breakfast) is a four-room guesthouse with many attractions nearby. Up the street is a historic palace, a 17th-century grand building renovated and reopened in 2021 to house the an art collection, which features works by Gilbert & George and Andy Warhol.

Next day we walk 10 minutes to Palermo’s Botanical Garden, with its record-breaking multi-trunk fig tree. Songbirds are chirping loudly as the light shines. Soon we’ll be in the UK, the time will change and winter will begin. We relish a last week in the sunshine.

Vienna

While lamenting the close of the warm season and spending time at seaside spots and swimming areas on the tributaries of the Danube, I’m now chasing a new hue. Vienna is a metropolis of parks and manicured gardens, meadow sweeps and woodland belts, which exchange their green canopy for a golden and ochre glow the locals call golden autumn.

I depart from the impressive buildings and old streets of the downtown. To the southwest of it, Schloss Schönbrunn Park extends from the grand Habsburg summer residence, where the gold isn’t reserved for the interior, and makes its way into corridors of towering copper bushes and curved walkways that lead to the bright building.

To the eastern part, in the city’s a large park, I stroll beneath the shady trees of the main avenue, an path that’s almost five kilometers long and ancient. On the edge of the park, the vintage-designed Superbude Prater hotel (rooms from €78 with breakfast) is a ideally located getaway.

In a city with many city gardens (thanks to a long-standing commitment to encouraging parks and building local culture), autumn brings a feast of fresh produce on restaurant offerings. Squash soup is the seasonal staple – best devoured in a wood-panelled pub such as the decorated a popular spot – and followed with a Wiener Schnitzel.

The city is a city of green areas and gardens that change their green cover for a golden and warm hue.

Unbeknown to many, Vienna is the only continental city to produce wine within its city limits, with 700 hectares of grape fields. There are fourteen designated city hiking trails, known as walking routes. Route one leads you through the vintner lands of Nussdorf. Settle in a hillside wine tavern such as a local winery, drinking a zesty white wine with a platter (a platter of cold cuts and cheese), while soaking up the beautiful urban view.

The days are getting briefer, but now is the ideal moment to wander among the city's grand buildings, museums and old homes – a {cultural crop|